Our third day was our longest and most ambitious. We had booked ferry tickets to go to Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran islands. We debated on the other two but they’re all small, and we were told Inishmore had more to see and do. The lady from the shop put it into clear perspective for us. It felt as though we were leaving our hotel right as the sun was rising. The view on the way from Galway to Rossaveal was beautiful. Luckily, we stopped at a Spar and asked the man there for directions to the parking lot of the ferry place because we were about a five minute drive from the right pick up spot. Spars saving us became a common theme throughout our time in Ireland. We drove the remaining five minutes and paid for our tickets from the lady at the front desk. We saw a hot French man and spoke to him briefly before getting on the ferry. The ride was quiet and we enjoyed catching up and talking more about our favourite parts of Ireland. Eve showed me her texts with a guy she was dating at home and they were so cute and sweet to each other. I love to creep.
When we got to the island, we found the bike rental spot. Despite having no cash on us (cause we’re dumb), the man let us give him an IOU because we looked like trustworthy people, I guess. Also, we were on an island and couldn’t go anywhere else. Also, we would have to come by the bike rental spot on the way back to the ferry and it would be awkward if we didn’t return the bikes and give him the money we owed. We vowed to get some at the Spar on the island. Spars are everywhere and I liked that you could buy alcohol and junk food from them and walk it all home and have a party. The convenience. We waited around for our day to get started because we wanted to go to this one cute little restaurant on the opposite end of the island (west maybe?) and buy some sheep’s wool sweaters. We got cash from the ATM and left on our bikes.
We travelled along the one road ahead of us and stopped whenever we saw something we liked. There was a little beach where the waves were coming in strong. There was an abandoned church. There were all these little houses that looked lived in but the island itself was devoid of people who weren’t tourists or shop keepers. It appeared exactly how you expected a remote Irish village on an island to be like and I felt myself holding my breath often to not be distracted by my thoughts or energy that day.
As we continued biking, I kept holding Eve back. She would speed ahead off in front of me and do that thing where you stop until I caught up to her then take off again. I wished there was a way to better communicate that I was content staying back and taking pics by myself but she was too far ahead and the signal couldn’t connect on our phones. Also, it would be weird for me to text her when I could catch up and tell her in person. We found the cute restaurant. It looked bright and open and there was this giant stone fireplace heating the place up. The air inside was fresh. Eve ordered a salad and I got lasagna. We both noticed this rich chocolate Guinness cake that looked amazing so we asked for a piece, only for the first few bites to taste bad. But it grew on us.
We left the restaurant house then Eve spent four hours trying to decide on a colour and knit for her sweater at a nearby shop. They were all beautiful. She landed on one and we kept biking. This part of the day felt rushed because we had to get back before the ferry and still had to pay for our bikes and didn’t want show up late. We compensated by absolutely booking it the fuck back as quickly as we could, which stressed me out. We didn’t have much time to enjoy the scenery and I kept insisting we take the more straightforward way. We don’t know if we made the right call but we still got there with, like, a half hour to spare so we dropped our bikes off (and paid for them, relax) and waited by the pier for them to let us back on the ferry. It started to rain more forcefully at this point.
Once on the ferry, they couldn’t back out of the pier and had to turn the boat around in the opposite direction. It took us an extra half hour of waiting and my phone died but Eve let me watch the double rainbow guy video on Youtube on hers. We were pissed we’d have to book it home because we had reservations at Loam, the Michelin-starred restaurant I forced Eve into going to. I had already pushed the booking back by an hour because of our trip to Inishmore, so felt wrong requesting to move it further. We got to Rossaveal and paid for our parking, at which point it started to torrential downpour on us. Everyone was trying to leave at the same moment and we strapped ourselves in for a long drive back to Galway so we could eat at this restaurant we were both not feeling fancy enough for. With limited time to get ready. Luckily, the rain subsided pretty quickly and I tried to find pump up music on my phone to play on the drive back but it was mostly Modest Mouse and Bright Eyes. I need to remind myself to never let it play on straight shuffle when in the company of other people.
We made it back with a perfect amount of time to shower off our bike riding sweat, throw on some nice clothes, apply the lightest sprinkling of makeup, and head out the front door. Eve kept insisting we take the stairs, which drove me insane, but ultimately contributed to our step count so I got over it. We walked to Loam in the dark and rain and made it basically at 7:00 p.m. It impressed me. Some nice men took our coats and led us to our table in the middle of this enormous room. It looked like the lobby of an office building, with a big glass fire and decorative art everywhere. Sculptures. The vibe of the place was esoteric. We weren’t supposed to understand. Eve was reluctant to buy into the fanciness of it all but quickly realized her mistake when the server brought us these three amuse-bouches. We maintain that these were the best parts of the whole meal which could mean disappointment for us. Strange to start off with such a culinary prize, but I think we’re improving at noticing good food when we taste it.
We ordered a glass of wine each and proceeded to eat the rest of our meals in peace. The spot was so quiet we felt weird taking pictures and laughing loudly at everything we were saying but it livened up by the time we got our desserts. There was this one miso caramel dessert I almost couldn’t finish and felt obligated for decorum’s sake and also because we were spending a fortune on it. Either way, Michelin-starred restaurants’ food can disappoint. I said it. I’m honouring them with this privilege because not everything everyone makes has to be of quality. Take this Ireland trip summary, for example.
This time was another night when we tried to go out but failed because I was too tired/thought I would shit my pants. I made it back to the apartment and waited for Eve to get back so we could drink some wine and watch Netflix before crashing hard like every other night of this trip.
The next morning, a Friday, we had to be up early to check out of our apartment in Galway and into a small bed and breakfast in Doolin. We were tired and didn’t eat breakfast because we figured we could consolidate meals on the road. I didn’t Google any restaurants before we got in the rental car, so we had to keep coming up with ideas for places to stop in on the drive. It appeared as though most of these places were only open for dinner and after a few false starts we finally called this restaurant in Lisdoonvarna and the man who answered the phone seemed startled by my area code and non-Irish accent. He said they were open and serving lunch so we promptly found the Roadside Tavern on our maps and drove straight to him. A nice lady greeted us and sat us while we looked at the menu. While we were deciding what to eat (leek and potato soup and coffee), the man from the phone stumbled out of what seemed like a closet but was more likely a door to stairs that led to an office on the floor above. Our presence scared him as we confirmed that I was the person who called earlier to ask if they were open. We discussed his pub and our trip so far but there seemed to be a bit of an accent barrier. More than once Eve, who is Australian, had to translate what I was saying to Irish people. Confusing.
Before the Roadside Tavern, we went to the Cliffs of Moher. They were beautiful and much like Inishmore, exactly how you imagine them to be from the pictures you see of them online. I worried about the young people who were standing on the edge and not adhering to the signs’ requesting you refrain from jumping over the ropes but here we are. Was I going to spend my afternoon freaking out about this disregard for the rules? Probably, yes.
After this we continued on our drive to Doolin where we could drop our bags off at our Airbnb, take another shower (I only felt the pressure to do this because of Eve’s regular showering; otherwise I would have saved myself a ton of time) then have a nice dinner in town. We didn’t mismanage our schedule but we also didn’t account for the sun setting that night. It already felt dark in the part of the country where we were, which was helped by the overcast sky and impending rain.
I did some work and googled “good pubs Doolin.” Luckily, there are like three and we ended up picking one within walking distance. Which meant basically anything within 45 minutes so we opted for one that was half an hour away. We didn’t think we’d get into town when the sun was setting and when most of the other shops were closing, so we wouldn’t get to experience walking around and getting a coffee to keep us up for another few hours. We arrived at six and the bartender said they had live music at every pub in Doolin that night but that theirs would start around nine. The pub was delightful. A thing I noticed about bars in Ireland is the people hanging out around in groups whose ages vary. There was no uniformity in age groups at most of the tables we saw, unless it was a couple. Young men and women in together with an older couple or something. It made me wonder why I didn’t go out to pubs with my parents and then I remembered all the times I’ve come home to my parents’ house in the middle of the night to throw up and sleep only to have them wake up and look disappointed at me and decided it was better this way. Leave this custom to Irish people to do.
We stayed until nine, at which point a younger man held his banjo with his grandfather (or friend) playing the guitar. They were good. Eve and I were glad we stayed and left at the perfect moment because a group needed a seat and we were occupying a nice corner spot. Before departing, we had a hard time determining the best cab company to take back to the b&b but this had more to do with the fact that cab companies don’t exist there. When we asked the bartender, he mentioned we could consult a list on the wall in the front doorway (complete with the five most Irish-sounding names I’ve ever heard, which included the owner of the pub we were in) but followed this up with saying we were better off walking because no one answered their phones and if they did, it would take an hour for them to get to us.
We set out to jaunt home in the darkness of the night back to the Airbnb. We were both wearing our big raincoats and comfortable shoes and were protected from the cold. At one point, we were almost running. I also, as it usually happened at night, felt that I would shit my pants which wasn’t helped by the fear I was feeling getting back to our random house in the dark. We tried to distract ourselves by chatting, but I was out of breath and we both focused on getting home without getting hit by a car and thrown into a ditch. The road was a straight shot back, but it was bumpy and unpredictable the closer we got to our spot. We finally saw the sign outside the front gate and quietly made our way to our room. Eve, very sweetly, let me use the bathroom first and we both showered and did face masks. We proceeded to have the worst sleep of the whole trip because I was hot and couldn’t find a comfortable spot so kept moving. Maybe it was the leftover adrenaline from the walk/run home. This movement kept Eve awake so she slept on the floor. She’s a saint and a true friend because she never got upset or annoyed with me. A real A+ pal.
In the morning, we had to wake up before the sunrise because we had to be in Dublin to drop off our car before 10:30 and it would take us three and a half hours to get there from Doolin. This idea turned out better in practice because it meant we saw the coast again on the way North and a few spots we had missed on our way down from Galway. Driving in the dark along these single-lane roads through fields was so funny and weird. Being there with Eve to share the experience made it better. I talked about how great I thought it was and she echoed my enthusiasm, even though we both hadn’t slept much and it was still 8 a.m. We drove up into the mountains and around these areas with remains of castles. Our drive was specifically bringing us to all these visually stimulating places without us trying. Is it that or does Ireland have a high capita of interesting, beautiful spots to look at and you can’t help but hit them all whenever you travel over long distances there?
Seeing the sunrise while driving through the fields was especially great for me. We stopped to get snacks and had a stressful remainder of the drive to Dublin, though it was pretty simple once on the highway. Where we messed up (and by we, I mean I) was on the roundabouts. We made it to the car rental place with, again, barely a minute to spare and took a bus into Dublin where we walked around twenty minutes to our hotel, trailed by our big ass bags. It was lovely and the man at the front desk made me feel instantly at home by letting us 1. Check in early and 2. Get separate beds to make up for the shit sleep we both got the night before. I thought if I could guarantee this for Eve, it might somehow pay her back for my being so annoying to sleep next to, she had to physically remove herself from the bed.
We power napped for an hour once we had situated all our bags in our room and put the TV on and decided what to do for the rest of the day. We went to Two Pups for brunch and we walked to Saint Patrick’s cathedral where I awed over everything. It’s huge. I loved looking inside and outside the churches we visited. They were beautiful and huge no matter where we went and most of the time you don’t have to pay to enter. You did for St. Patrick’s Cathedral, though. But I maintain that it was worth it. Eve drew me a picture of Dorcas and we went on a little walk to explore the rest of Dublin. This was our time to loiter outside museums and see if we could watch a virtual tour on our phones, instead, to save ourselves the €8 price of admission. Eve wanted to shop and eat and I liked walking around and looking at the buildings so we were happy to keep on going outside until we found stores and restaurants that seemed good to us. We walked by the Dublin Castle and I, again, forced Eve to go to the Trinity College Library which was stunning and huge but also packed full of people. It was interesting to see although, it would be cool to visit at a less busy time. Tourists can be so goofy, right?
We walked around more and finally went back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. We ate this greasy vegan dinner and then decided to go out for drinks. It wasn’t great but we shared some wine and I was buzzed. Maybe for the first time of the trip but it wasn’t the energized buzz you feel after you have three beers and commit to staying out until at least 2 a.m. We tried. We did. But as usual, Eve had it in her and I could crash at any moment. I also picked a fight with her because she said she didn’t like the Phantom of the Opera or any musical period and I couldn’t understand why. It wasn’t a good time. We made it back with plenty of time to spare to get a solid 8–9 hour sleep. It was nice to do my bedtime routine with Eve there picking something we’d both like to watch on TV and making us tea. This was a favourite part of the whole trip, when Eve made me tea or coffee every morning and knowing what I liked. I hope I repaid her by finding good restaurants and coffee places to go to.
The next day was our first and last full one in Dublin so we wanted to do the most. We didn’t overextend and didn’t make concrete plans but knew we needed to eat at the Landmark for dinner because it looked cool, was close to our hotel and we couldn’t get in the night before because it was too busy. Exclusivity was our downfall. It was sunny and gorgeous again in Dublin and we walked to Brother Hubbard for brunch. The neighbourhood vaguely reminded me of home but mostly in the way you look for any resemblance to a place that you’re familiar with when you’re on vacation, to anchor you or something. I don’t know why I do this but this particular neighbourhood looked like the nicest, richest neighbourhood on its best day where I live. And this was one small part of Dublin. I took a picture of a realtor’s sign for an apartment because I started contemplating living there like, for real for real.
Everything at Brother Hubbard tasted delicious and we left in good spirits and energized from our brunch instead of lazy like I usually feel after a big meal. We walked through a park I didn’t recognize called Iveagh Gardens. It was like St. Stephen’s Green’s but cooler. At one point, we saw these huge chandeliers hanging from a tree in someone’s garden and we kept walking until we got to the back of the literature museum. We opted out of paying the entrance fee and just kept to the gift shop and St. Stephen’s Green. It was gorgeous out.
After this, we walked to the Natural History Museum which we went into (because it was free) and we saw many taxidermied animals. It was cool but my favourite part was overhearing the little Irish kids marvelling at what they were seeing. There was this one family with two young girls and one of them kept saying, “LOOK!” to every animal she saw. We went upstairs and washed our hands and as we left, it began raining again. It was gross enough out that we started looking for a Spar we could get snacks from. I wanted to send some postcards home but it required finding not only international stamps but also a post box to send them in and I got bored seeking these out. So I bought some wine that I love which isn’t widely available at home and a corkscrew so we could drink it at our hotel before dinner that night. I walked around with this bottle in my jacket pocket and Eve went to a department store to browse sunglasses which she bought and loved. They looked sweet on her.
At this point, the weather started picking up and we decided to stop at a cafe we had been considering for brunch but which lost to Brother Hubbard.
We walked back and further contemplated buying a little Irish apartment of my dreams with my dream money at home. We ended the night getting a Guinness and more fries at the Landmark and deciding to skip the live music playing on our way out. We were exhausted and we had had this experience already. We walked the rest of the way back to the hotel and crashed hard. We felt under-slept and scandalized that we had our flights home the next day.